Kolache Mama offers the mother of Czech baked goods in flavors mom never thought of. (Photo: Richard Saler)
By BESSIE KING
Empanada Joes has come and gone, Krispy Kreme has almost disappeared and Tasty Delight could face a freeze in sales once fans of frozen yogurt welcome winter. Into this boom-and-bust cycle steps Kolache Mama. Mama who?
Kolache, the mother of Czech baked goods (pronounced co-LAH-chee) was originally a sweet dessert, but not exactly a pastry. Over the years Czech communities in America began making kolache in areas with large European populations. The buttery yet light dough was filled with traditional fruit fillings, like raspberry or apricot, and cheeses before being tried with heartier options, like hams or eggs, around Texas, Oklahoma, Nebraska or Minnesota. Kolache became a snack or breakfast option.
But now a Houston entrepreneur has decided to introduce the kolache to New Yorkers, hoping to make it the next bagel.
“Bagels started with an ethnicity group and are now across the board,” said Richard Saler, CEO and director of Kolache Mama, the franchise that will sell kolache. “We feel we can popularize the kolache like bagels because people don’t know what it is, we have so many options to eat them and alone are only 25 calories.” As for appealing to a New York audience, he said, “We chose New York to start the business because if you make it here, you’ve made it.”
Originally only a sweet dessert, kolache are now offered in savory versions as well. (Photo: Richard Saler)
Saler, who was born in Philadelphia but has lived in Houston for several years, tried kolache in a small Texas shop when his son-in-law suggested them. After tasting the hard-to-describe treat, he was hooked. He noticed that even if vendors tested different fillings kolache were still seen as a breakfast or dessert-only food.
For two years, he did research and development to see if there could be a market outside of Czech communities and invested over $150,000 to develop a business plan. On Sept. 30 the first New York Kolache Mama store opened at 45 E. 45 St., and others are planned for 34th Street, Washington, Boston, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Chicago.
“Our products are fresh and we have vegetarian, lunch, snack and other options at an accessible price,” Saler said. “We are not selling kolache as the new ethnic food but a new food option, and we’re not selling it as just a breakfast item either.”
With little over 8,000 Czechs in New York City, Saler will definitely have to appeal to people who know nothing of his product and can judge it on its taste alone. During the store opening, the hot pink logo and the smell of baked bread reeled a few of them in. When presented with a hand-sized baked something filled with one of the more than 20 options for $2.99, their taste buds and price-conscious minds seemed to like what Kolache Mama offers.
“It was thrilling to have my first kolache,” said Annie Hu, who tried the food on opening day. “The dough is delicious and the fillings were tasty. For under $5 you can get a kolache and a cup of coffee. It’s worth the price.”
Saler recruited a “culinary team” to develop a menu for his kolache, including Christopher Lampo, a 1989 honors graduate of the Culinary Institute of America; David James, chef de cuisine; Jocelyn Jones, a pastry chef; and Christine Campbell. The business will also offer catering and has partnered with City Harvest, a city food bank, to pick up unsold food each day and to receive a donated percentage of sales.
